Made in Taiwan. This is written everywhere on your clothes, your shoes, your batteries, your toaster. Half of your world comes from the other side of Earth. But Taiwan is nothing like an open-sky workshop sending cheap stuff to the Western countries. Taiwan is smart and cool. Taiwan offers similar living conditions with Europe and the USA. Taiwan has a fascinating history, beautiful landscapes, great cultural heritage and fantastic people. Polite and respectful like the Japanese, relax and smiling like South-East Asian, hard-working like the Chinese, curious like the Westerners. I guess that on the long-term, they also reveal the bad sides of all these people together, but for a visitor like me, the attitude of Taiwanese people is really beyond compare. You can't be more welcome anywhere than in Taiwan. These people make you immediatly feel at home and comfortable. I am genuinely amazed.
I have seen extremely few Caucasian tourists during my stay; Taiwan is still pretty unknown from the West. We certainly have the image of "a little piece of China, producing cheap". But the ancient island of Formosa really deserves better than opinion that. Follow me !
Taipei !
Here is the legendary Tapei 101, the main landmark of the Taiwanese capital, which has been the highest tower in the world for a long time. As skyscrappers are quite rare in Taipei, you can't miss it. From anywhere around, you can see it standing like a giant bambooo cane in the skyline. Personnally, I found it is the prettiest high modern landmark I have ever seen.
And from its top, you can admire Taiwan, lost in the mist. Blue hills in the background, regular rows of small buildings, and green oasis everywhere.
You wouldn't sware it when you see it from high, but Taipei is a real human-scale city, not a giant megalopolis like Tokyo or a busy bee hive like Hong-Kong. There is only a few subway lines, confortable distances, and you can reach any spot quite easily. Imagine wide streets like in Bangkok, but as clean as in Japan, busy like in Hong-Kong during open hours and calm like France on Sunday mornings.
(Oh yeah, and yellow cabs like in New-York city.)
By the way, Taiwan's official name is ROC : Republic of China. Not to take for the People's Republic of China, of course. Yes, it's confusing. In the past, Taiwan has been ruled by China, then by Japan, and finally became the shelter of the last supporters of the old Republic of China, while mainland China was taken over by the commmunists. So tiny Taiwan still considers itself as the true legitimate "Republic of China", though the big Chinese neighbour claims it belongs to the People's Republic of China. Complicated, uh.
In this context, you will understand that the General Tchang Kai-check, the former President of this Republic, is venerated like a god. A god with a big house in center town, lucky him.
Tchang Kai-chek Memorial
Taipei has space! Space for memorials, for parks, for emptiness. And it feels great. Don't you think we could record a movie here ?
Retro Taipei
I was taking about human-scale distances. And I prove it. There are hot springs in the North of the city, and you can get access to it with the subway. Yes. Welcome to Xinbeitou hot hot hot springs, with its smelly sulfur smokes and its milky boiling waters...
Xinbeitou hot springs
Even if I was amazingly luck to find myself in Taipei under a perfect sun, let's do not forget Taiwan is most of the time under the sky's waters. The rainy season is long and heavy, and then typhoons are coming regularly to remind everyone it's a tropical zone, b*tch. So no wonder nature is constantly taking over concrete.
Nature in the city
Free and natural hot foot bath downtown, friends ! Yes, we can! Feeling tired after shopping? Let's relax your legs in hot water!
To complete your feet treat, why don't you walk on massage stones? Yeah, I know, it's excrutiating. But God you feel relax and light after that.
Go further to the North with the metro red line, and contemplate the sunset on Tamsui river. Holidays atmosphere guaranteed !
Tamsui sunset
Ok, now let's get a bite of culture. In the beating heart of Taipei, there is a Chinese mansion surrounded by pure gardens that belonged before to a powerful merchants' family, the Lin. Now you can visit this jewel of architecture for free. For free ! All this beauty, for free !
Lin Family House & Gardens
Of course, after this, I felt more a princess than ever. Imagine me walking in these delicate gardens, composing a poem under one of these moon-gates, looking for the reflexion of my lover in the pond's water... In this dress...
Yes, because Taiwan also offers one of the greatest Chinese service : costumed photo shooting. In this kind of photo studio, you can get make-up, hairstyling and dressing up before being photo-shooted like a star. That's just an appetizer. Wait a bit for the professional shots to be delivered at my place! It's going to be spectacular!!
But we still have many things to see in town. For example, temples. Of course the Taiwanese, like the Chinese, don't miss a chance to go to the temple and pray ancestors or gods for success and protection. They light up candles or incense sticks, bring food to the spirits and also have meals there. So Taipei's temples are busy night and day...
Longshan Temple
Tai Hou Temple
But the Chinese roots are not the only reference here. Actually, during the Japanese period, Taiwan has been entirely reorganized, modernized and equipped with infrastructure. The Taiwanese are maybe the only people in Asia who are thinking positively of Japan and the former Japanese "influence". They litterally adore the Japanese culture, food, fashion and way of life, feeling way closer from the archipelago than from mainland China. The Japanese heritage is praised and maintained with great care. I could easily communicate in Japanese with people when they couldn't speak English. And they all said how lucky I was to live in Tokyo. Coming from "Chinese" people, trust me, it's surprising.
Maybe because it's an island too, we could also find a piece of British architecture in this Tudor style house. It has been built by a Chinese businessman in 1913, to entertain his clients. Unexpected, and beautiful.
Taipei Story House
On the other side of the road, that's another piece of cake.
Taipei Grand Hotel
Bang. A very chinese-style palace, absolutely huge, defying the city from the hill. Impressive...
After this Titan house, it's a relief to appreciate little details... Delicate flowers... light soap bubbles... aerian lanterns... a flying bicycle...
Enchanted street life
Maybe you though I would politely decline the opportunity to eat like a cow ? Nope. Taiwan is so full of delicious food and drinks that it is a pity there is only three meals in a day. Honestly, you need more than a long week-end to try everything Taipei has to offer. Here is a few samples of what I could try, but trust me, walking on the street in Taiwan is a permanent frustration. Yummy stuff everywhere. Everywhere. EVERYWHERE.
Rose and lychee bread
Wonton noodles
Benedict eggs and salmon baggels
Chinese dumplings dim-sum
Kumquat juice
As I said, Taipei has something of Tokyo, right. Including the what-the-f*ck theme restaurants culture. We refrained on trying the toilet-theme one (no thanks) but we couldn't resist for the Barbie Cafe. The Barbie Cafe !!
Somebody said pink?
But the final objective of this Taiwan trip was of course to enjoy time with a great friend. And to say hello to another old one.
After a mint and tea-tree Taiwan shampoo with skull massage...
Already thinking of the next step of my Asian tour! Will it be the Philippines, Vietnam, Malaysia, Laos?... Suspense!