From Shibakoen to Hibiya, Tokyo is subtly shining with green, golden and red shades. Check it out !

The red momiji (Japanese maples) are used to be the stars of the fall season in the archipelago, with their violently flaming tones attracting the visitors in the mountains, the forests and the parks; but for me, in autumn, there's nothing like the Tokyo golden gingko trees shining on the perfect blue sky. Pure beauty. Pure energy. And God knows that I need it these days.

Yellow vegetal torches

Gingko biloba (銀杏, "ichou" in Japanese : silver apricot) is also called the "maidenhair tree": this is probably the reason why I feel so close to them! Hey, soul sisters! Furthermore, according to the specialists, ginkgos are remarkably easy to care for and will grow in most conditions from sun through to shade. And this type of tree is sexualized: there are male and female gingkos. In Japan, kids learn to identify them according to the shape of the leaves : a skirt shape for a female tree, a trouser shape for a male tree.

Ichou trees are very familiar vegetals in Tokyo, and they are part of the daily landscape of millions of Japanese, but actually, they are very special, because we don't know any "relatives" to this specy. It makes it amazingly unique. The scientist call it a "living fossile", because it belongs to this range of species that were born 270 millions years ago. Gingkos are wise, very wise trees.

Let's get inspired

Whisper words of wisdom: let it be.

I though that the hanabi season was behind us, but I was wrong. Even in October, fire flowers can light up the Tokyo bay over the rainbow bridge.

"pop"

"shebam"

"paw"

"blop"

"wizzzz"

Somewhere over the rainbow
Way up high,
There's a land that I heard of
Once in a lullaby.

Somewhere over the rainbow
Skies are blue,
And the dreams that you dare to dream
Really do come true.

Someday I'll wish upon a star
And wake up where the clouds are far
Behind me.
Where troubles melt like lemon drops
Away above the chimney tops
That's where you'll find me.

Somewhere over the rainbow
Bluebirds fly.
Birds fly over the rainbow.
Why then, oh why can't I?

If happy little bluebirds fly
Beyond the rainbow
Why, oh why can't I?

At Meguro.

Winter is coming.

Autumne never ends in this country... It's December already, en have a look at what was waiting for me at Rikugien !

Welcome to a typical Edo period garden ! No doubt that the walkers in the ancient times have been inspired by its beauty to write poetry. As fall came late this year, we can enjoy these amazing colors at the fringe of winter. Light is excellent. Contrast is perfect. What else ???

In the mountains, two hours by train from Tokyo (by Tobu line from Asakusa station), there is a holly place which is famous at the same time for buddhism, shinto and political history : Nikko (日光), the "Sunlight" of Japan, the right place to spend a week-end in November, when the leaves are red and the air is so pure. Follow me !

Lucky me : Look at this sky, from my window seat. Nikko is more meaningful when the sun shines, and the autumn sky did not fail to bless the trip.

Up there in the mountain, the climate is definitely fresher ; gloves and scarf are required ! The greatest point of Nikko is, according to me, its natural landscape, with its volcano-shaped mountains, its lakes and its waterfalls. From Nikko station, you can take a bus to Chuzenji lake (two days bus pass available for 2700 yen), and enjoy this scenary :

Chuzenji Lake

Water, stones, sky. Nikko has something solemn that even Nature reflects.

Kogen waterfall

In Japanese, the word for waterfall, taki (滝) means "water dragon". So poetic. In the case of kogen falls, the dragon is long, white, slim and pure, shining in the sunlight like a long clear ribbon.

Senjogahara Plateau

There are many small waterfalls in Senjohara plateau, and beautiful trees too - even if in late November, most of the colors were gone already. It's winter already in these high places ! Still, I could have a nice shot of flaming branches.

Not so bad for a rest of colors.

Toshogu Sanctuary

Toshogu Sancturay is the jewel of Nikko. The site has been finished in 1636, in the memory of Ieyasu, foundator of Tokugawa shogunate. This smart warrior-politician managed to unify the country in the 16th Century (before him, Japan was a patchwork of lands constantly disputed by clans) and to build the base of the Tokugawa's 250-years supremacy in Japan, until Meiji period. He was also the one who chose the Kanto region as the new capital of Japan, over the traditionnal Kyoto.

The shrines here are shinto, but so colourful, red and gold just as Chinese buddhist temples.

This is the symbol of Nikko : the 3 monkeys of wisdom. One does not hear what he shouldn't ; one does not tell what he shouldn't; one does not see what he shouldn't. This was a free lesson for the lords and politicians who had to wait for the shogun's leave to enter the Yomeimon gate and expose their demands or projects.

Yomeimon gate

Ieyasu's tomb

200 steps to reach the tomb. Yalla.

Ieyasu's tomb is very impressive, at the top of the hill, and all made in carved bronze which was much more precious than gold in Japan at this period.

The holly forest

The surrounding forest was just amazing : 16 000 cedars, most of them more than 300 years. Tall and magnificent trees...

This one is a kami, a Japanese god, as shown by the characteristic rope around it. People were sending money in its empty trunk and praying.

The giants of the forest...

... and color gifts everywhere.

World Heritage Park

The sanctuary belongs to a larger area classified as World Heritage by the Unesco. The park is full of old stone walls, ancient gardens and beautifully carved roofs. And trees. Trees. Trees !

Shinkyo Bridge

During Edo period, only the Emperor could walk on this bridge across the Daiya river. It is still closed to the public, but only because of its historical value, I guess. I hope. Whatever.

The Monkey Experience

Alright : my most striking memory of Nikko will be... the monkey I saw in the woods. A baboon, to be more precise, and big like a medium-sized dog, with a pink face and long grey-brown hair. Like this. Unfortunately the meeting was too short and I could not take a picture. I was astonished to see it like that, randomly, in this familiar-looking forest, and the Japanese around me saying "Why, this is nature, there are trees, so there are monkeys...". Hey, for a French, monkeys are in the zoo, not in the forest !  Come on, guys, that is so exotic !...

Can't believe I saw this, in its big version, and in real, a few meters from me... 

... everything is normal.

To the question "what should we eat at Nikko?", unfortunately, I don't have the answer. Only kakis, there were so many on the trees. For the rest, I found no typical food but this steaming "shogun curry", super-black and sweet type, that made my day...

Shogun curry !

Anecdote : In Nikko hotel, no Bible in your drawer but the Teaching of Buddha.

And that was my Nikko experience. Nature, History, Colors... What else ?

Sometimes it's nice to bring my obento on the roof and eat lunch under the sun. My work place is situated in a very quiet area between Meguro and Gotanda ; it's green, peaceful, the perfect place to breathe and relax. Could stay there until the night...

Most of the graveyards in Japan have no walls, no fences, no gates; and it made me realize that our graveyards really look like prisons. It's not surprising that the Western zombies just want to escape and walk freely in town like anyone else.
So there is no gates, no guardians, and you can come anytime - by night, too. It's a place like another. So it's really not frightening. Even ghost stories are used to take place in summer in the Japanese tales, when it's super-warm - while we can not imaging a dead spirit without thinking of cold, freezing wind... as a result, in this sunny December, no way you feel ill at ease in a Japanese cemetery !

Aoyama yard, Tokyo

The Reds and the Yellows are fighting at Koyama, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo.
Who wins ?

The Reds ?

The Yellows ?

The Reds ?

The Yellows ?

The Reds ?

The Yellows ?

The Reds ?

The Yellows ?

I just can't choose, make your choice.

Meguro River... I cross it twice everyday. In this season, it looks a bit like my old Kanda River.