Autumne never ends in this country... It's December already, en have a look at what was waiting for me at Rikugien !

Welcome to a typical Edo period garden ! No doubt that the walkers in the ancient times have been inspired by its beauty to write poetry. As fall came late this year, we can enjoy these amazing colors at the fringe of winter. Light is excellent. Contrast is perfect. What else ???

It was on November 28th, at Royal Park Hotel ; another major event for the visibility of African cultures in Tokyo, organized by the Ladies' Friendship Association for Africa and the Middle East (Nihon Chuukinto Africa Fujinkai) : the African Charity Bazaar. As for African Festa, Mali was there with a food booth and a shop corner.

As the event was not in open-air this time, the atmosphere was more cosy and also noisier, but also a bit high-quality looking. Also, this time the entry was not free - people had to pay 2000yen to enter and participate to the loto game. Obviously, the participants were mainly Africa-fans who come every year to buy artcraft and other rare products. Chic Bazaar !

The Embassy's cook menu : tieb'n dien and bashi

Bazaar

Me and the best Malian Cook

Bissap juice (hibiscus)

 France, Mali, Japan : my World Twister Game

I had bashi in take-away, to eat at home (a kind of peanut couscous with a delicious sauce made of meat, spinach, onions...). It is, actually, delicious.

December ! Christmas ! Family ! In two weeks I will fly to France, have a great family refill and enjoy Christmas atmosphere. For the moment, I give you the first sweet Xmas hints around :

 My little Xmas Tree at home

Xmas lights at Ebisu Garden

In the mountains, two hours by train from Tokyo (by Tobu line from Asakusa station), there is a holly place which is famous at the same time for buddhism, shinto and political history : Nikko (日光), the "Sunlight" of Japan, the right place to spend a week-end in November, when the leaves are red and the air is so pure. Follow me !

Lucky me : Look at this sky, from my window seat. Nikko is more meaningful when the sun shines, and the autumn sky did not fail to bless the trip.

Up there in the mountain, the climate is definitely fresher ; gloves and scarf are required ! The greatest point of Nikko is, according to me, its natural landscape, with its volcano-shaped mountains, its lakes and its waterfalls. From Nikko station, you can take a bus to Chuzenji lake (two days bus pass available for 2700 yen), and enjoy this scenary :

Chuzenji Lake

Water, stones, sky. Nikko has something solemn that even Nature reflects.

Kogen waterfall

In Japanese, the word for waterfall, taki (滝) means "water dragon". So poetic. In the case of kogen falls, the dragon is long, white, slim and pure, shining in the sunlight like a long clear ribbon.

Senjogahara Plateau

There are many small waterfalls in Senjohara plateau, and beautiful trees too - even if in late November, most of the colors were gone already. It's winter already in these high places ! Still, I could have a nice shot of flaming branches.

Not so bad for a rest of colors.

Toshogu Sanctuary

Toshogu Sancturay is the jewel of Nikko. The site has been finished in 1636, in the memory of Ieyasu, foundator of Tokugawa shogunate. This smart warrior-politician managed to unify the country in the 16th Century (before him, Japan was a patchwork of lands constantly disputed by clans) and to build the base of the Tokugawa's 250-years supremacy in Japan, until Meiji period. He was also the one who chose the Kanto region as the new capital of Japan, over the traditionnal Kyoto.

The shrines here are shinto, but so colourful, red and gold just as Chinese buddhist temples.

This is the symbol of Nikko : the 3 monkeys of wisdom. One does not hear what he shouldn't ; one does not tell what he shouldn't; one does not see what he shouldn't. This was a free lesson for the lords and politicians who had to wait for the shogun's leave to enter the Yomeimon gate and expose their demands or projects.

Yomeimon gate

Ieyasu's tomb

200 steps to reach the tomb. Yalla.

Ieyasu's tomb is very impressive, at the top of the hill, and all made in carved bronze which was much more precious than gold in Japan at this period.

The holly forest

The surrounding forest was just amazing : 16 000 cedars, most of them more than 300 years. Tall and magnificent trees...

This one is a kami, a Japanese god, as shown by the characteristic rope around it. People were sending money in its empty trunk and praying.

The giants of the forest...

... and color gifts everywhere.

World Heritage Park

The sanctuary belongs to a larger area classified as World Heritage by the Unesco. The park is full of old stone walls, ancient gardens and beautifully carved roofs. And trees. Trees. Trees !

Shinkyo Bridge

During Edo period, only the Emperor could walk on this bridge across the Daiya river. It is still closed to the public, but only because of its historical value, I guess. I hope. Whatever.

The Monkey Experience

Alright : my most striking memory of Nikko will be... the monkey I saw in the woods. A baboon, to be more precise, and big like a medium-sized dog, with a pink face and long grey-brown hair. Like this. Unfortunately the meeting was too short and I could not take a picture. I was astonished to see it like that, randomly, in this familiar-looking forest, and the Japanese around me saying "Why, this is nature, there are trees, so there are monkeys...". Hey, for a French, monkeys are in the zoo, not in the forest !  Come on, guys, that is so exotic !...

Can't believe I saw this, in its big version, and in real, a few meters from me... 

... everything is normal.

To the question "what should we eat at Nikko?", unfortunately, I don't have the answer. Only kakis, there were so many on the trees. For the rest, I found no typical food but this steaming "shogun curry", super-black and sweet type, that made my day...

Shogun curry !

Anecdote : In Nikko hotel, no Bible in your drawer but the Teaching of Buddha.

And that was my Nikko experience. Nature, History, Colors... What else ?

Lovely Yokohama is always sunny for me. This week-end, it was definitely the most perfect weather for African Festa 2011, the biggest Africa-related event in Japan, organized by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Of course, the Malian Embassy was there, with musicians, singers, an African dance teacher (fortunately nobody pictured me when dancing), delicious food (tieb n'dien, niebe, to and so on), baobab powder, hibiscus, shea butter and many other stuff made in Africa.

African Beauty

Blue sky for ordered for Africa

African market

People queuing for Malian dishes

Our lovely Malian star

My lunch : fish tieb n'dien and spiced roasted chicken

Music !

Malian band on stage (Cheick Tidiane Seck and friends)

He played this song among others. Very interesting !

Djembe lessons

Kora players

Ghana dancers

The cutest drum player ever

My first baobab juice : yummy ! Offered by my Senegal "family"

The view on Yokohama by night... could be worse

I shook a hundred hands, received one thousand smiles, had sweet tea for free, and got real shea butter at the end of the day. Don't miss African Festa next year !

For urbanism and urbanity lovers.

Astonishing colors. Fuji-san as the cherry on the cake. Happy clouds. A million photo shoots on the back. A smile on my right. That was a successfull Sunday.

October is full of 3-days week-ends in Japan. This time, I decided to fly south and have a look at Fukuoka, the main city of Kyushu Island, where men are bold and mountains are hot (or the opposite, as you wish). Earthquakes are rare here, but volcanos are still smoking and the air is spicy with sulphur and Korean peppers. From Tokyo, it takes only 2 hours by plane to reach the city, and the little airport is amazingly close to the centertown, so you're ready to enjoy your holidays in an eye's blink.

For your information, I booked tickets with Skymark, the cheapest company to fly inside Japan - both plane and service were very good, I recommend it.

I'aaaaaaam coming up, so you'd better get the party started !

From the plane : look at who came just to say goodbye to me ! So sweet...

ZEN OYADO NISHITEI RYOKAN

As I had never been to Fukuoka, I randomly picked up a ryokan on the internet, and I have to say it was the best choice I could dream of. Zen Oyado Nishitei is a super-cute ryokan situated at Yakuin station, 20 by foot from both Hakata station and Tenjin station. Th design is great, traditionnal and neat. I did not order breakfast but I received "midnight" onigiri for free every night ! Fresh water and hot tea are provided in the rooms. The basins and bathroom are common, but the ryokan was so quiet I did not have to wait for it. The bathtube was huge, made of stones, I just loved it.

Pajamas provided !

MOMOCHI BEACH

No beach, no holidays. Fukuoka has a great seafront with many beaches, but let me introduce you the closest from the center and most convenient : Momochi Hama !

There is a church there for wedding ceremonies and all you can dream about : jetskies, ice-creams, palm trees. And SUNSETS, oh my God, SUNSETS.

FUKUOKA TOWER

All the big Japanese cities so far have a representative tower; Fukuoka Tower is especially beautiful, all made of glass shining in the sunlight...

FUKUOKA BY NIGHT

Fukuoka Bay from the Tower

The Floating Church from the Tower

Tenjin, the core of the city : wide streets, plenty of lights

Fukuoka famous street shops selling ramen, gyoza, yakiniku...

Fukuoka colors

FUKUOKA SPECIALITIES

I know I am desperately French, but I can't help it : for me, whatever the region, ramen is ramen... and I love it, for sure, but I don't really feel the difference between this Hakata Ramen (with soup and pork), the pride of Fukuoka, and any other ramen bowl. Maybe I aù going to be expelled of the country because I wrote this sentence, but whatever.

Hakata Ramen (yummy !)

Gyoza (one of my favorite dish in the world)

Fish & Seafood (let's it a lot before getting back home !)

and pistachio ice-cream ! Ok, it's not a local spciality, but I couldn't resist...

FUKUOKA CITY HALL

This is an amazing building with step gardens on the walls and a big orchestra center inside...

Dance contests : Fukuoka moves ! Here is the JR (Japan Railways) team, a funny performance with train noises !

DAZAIFU SHRINE

20 minutes by train from Tenjin station. As the country was invaded by Mongolia a long time ago, it is mixed with several influences and the result is even more colourful than usual shinto shrines.

KYUSHU NATIONAL MUSEUM

Huuuge... There is so much space here ! Is it Japan, really ?? Learn everything about Kyushu, including China, Korea, Mongolia influences on the region and above all, enjoy this incredible landscape... Bamboos everywhere ! Kyushu National Museum is a piece of art itself !

NOKONOSHIMA

Just in front of Fukuoka Bay, there is a 12 kilometers-diameter island called Nokonoshima (apparently it is a funny name to the Japanese ears), which is amazingly quiet and peaceful. 10 minutes by boat from Marinoa Mall Ferry station !

OHORIKOEN

Great park in central Fukuoka, Ohorikoen is the place I have seen the largest number of Westerners in Fukuoka. And this is also the place where I thought that Fukuoka was a very nice city to live in.

Fukuoka makes you happy ! Fukuoka makes you genki ! 

Pou-dou-dou ! Trop la pêche, moi. Ouais, ouais.

Don't miss the chance to go to Fukuoka !

Or the Beauty overdose.

OK : I think I have added this place to the list of the places I prefer in the world. It's just amazing. If you have a chance, you really have to go and see Chokoku no Mori Museum, at Hakone, 2h30 by Odakuy lines from Shinjuku station (details below). The perfect destination for a summer week-end. You're not going to regret it, even if, like me, you don't especially fancy contemporary art - there, the way the pieces of art are displayed is so perfect, so beautiful... I really got a shock contemplating these unexpected shapes, especially in the nature, like this... like gods, or fairies... wow. Have a look !

So, this is the concept : about 120 works by famous scuptors from all over the world - Japanese, American, Canadian, Italian, French, Hungarian, Argentine... among others, from Rodin to Niki de St Phalle - are hiding in the nature. You just have a stunning walk and enjoy every corner of every bush.

Hakone amazing landscape

I had the feeling my eyes were not wide enough for all this beauty, or maybe my brain.

Aesthetic shocks

Nature is female, and so is inspiration, if you trust the many curvy figures of this amazing museum.

Women

There were also many funny stuff in this park, it was not about being serious all the way long.

UFOs

The best play-ground ever, designed by a Canadian artist. But why is it always reserved for the kids ?? Great artists, let us adults have fun too ! Make it more resistant !

The stars of the Museum

Achille Talon et la Main du Serpent

At the end you don't know anymore who is here to be watched, and who is the public.

Family visiting

Lovers...

And also Van Gogh.

Finally, my very favourite parts. The first work is called Symphonic Sculpture (by Gabriel Loire) ; it was a tower you enter in to discover the one of most beautiful thing I have ever seen. Colors, colors, colors - and light. It reminds you the most joyful side of churchs, of faith, of customs and traditions, but at the same time this is something else, this is only pure beauty.

The second one gives a radically different atmosphere, but I liked it so much too : a kind of white paradise, between the Japanese stone-gardens and the contemplatio of the sea. As it was in a gallery, the air was a bit cold, and it suited the art works perfectly.

You got it, you absolutely have to go an see by yourself if you live in the surroundings of Tokyo. I guess that the Museum changes wonderfully with the seasons, and it's opened 365 days from 09:00 to 17:00. Want to taste a bit of contemporary sculpture in Japan ? Chokoku no mori !

Chukoku no Mori Bijutsukan - Hakone Open-air Museum

Admission : 1600 yen (adult)

Access : Shinjuku JR station > Odakyu Line to Odawara station > Hakone Odakyu Line in the direction of Gora, to Chokoku no mori station (total : about 2h30 by train, 1500 yen)

I got free tickets for Thai Fight Tournament at Ariake Colosseum, Odaiba, Tokyo - a nice opportunity for me to go and see what it looks like...

The Opening Speech has been said by Mr,Suwat Liptapanlop, former Deputy Prime Minister of Thailand - boxing seems to be a serious matter, in this country !

I was surprised to see that a Thai Fight Tournament are actually something very beautiful to watch (I don't talk of bodies only). Check it out :

Then, I have the feeling that in Thai Boxing the aesthetic performance is almost as important as the sport itself. We had a wonderful "Thai Fight Dance" to start, with an exciting warrior choregraphy and people jumping in the air :

The Fight itself : two teams (Japanese team and Thai-French International Team), 5 victories for the International. Sorry, Japan !

• Match 1 : Saiyok Pumpanmuang VS Koh Suman (Thailand wins)
• Match 2 : Fabio Pinca VS Yamato Yuya (France wins)
• Match 3 : Yodsanklai Faitex VS Shirasu Yasuhito (Japan wins)
• Match 4 : Sudsakorn Sor Klinmee VS Nishikawa Tomoyuki (Thailand wins)
• Match 5 : Buakaw Por Pramuk VS Makino Tomoaki (Thailand wins)
• Match 6 : Yohan Lidon VS Gohno Akihiro (France wins)

Funny detail : see on the left, there was a portrait of the King of Thailand, and the Thai Fighters went and bowed in front of it before entering the ring. Taiko for the atmosphere. Very impressive.

Here, Yohan Lidon, 73 kg French Thai Fighter (winner) :

Final victory of the Thai-French Team

Final Ceremony

The valiant Fighters

Eye of the Tiger !